Mangowallah in Crawford Market

Late April/early May marks a very special time in India: Mango Season. Now, I was already looking forward to those weeks because my mom and sister, Chloe, were coming to visit; however their sojourn, in conjunction with the arrival of this glorious fruit, made for an excellent, excellent combo. It was so wonderful having my family here and the week was jam-packed with activity (including a trip to Kerala–see below). I did my very best to share with them my favorite food haunts in Mumbai whilst indulging in as much mango as humanly possible along the way…

ALPHONSO, MY LOVE

Alphonso Mangoes for lunch: my Dream

I’ve always been a lover of mangoes. In fact, it’s difficult me to to walk into a Thai restaurant in the US without ordering mango sticky rice (yum). Indian mangoes, however, are on a whole different playing field. Americans are accustomed to Mexican mangoes (for the most part). In fact, there are laws against importing lush Indian mangoes to the land of milk and honey. Why? Something having to do with pests…regardless, I had never sampled an Indian mango until I arrived here.

If we’re talking Indian mangoes, the I must introduce the mama of all mangoes: the Alphonso mango. A decent bite into this fruit will leave your arm dripping with juice and your mouth full of happiness. In fact, there’s no reason I would recommend coming to India during this prohibitively hot time of year other than to get your paws on one of these jewels.

Me Encanta Mango

People here are as crazy about mango as I am. Restaurants city-wide have infused their menus with seasonal riffs–everything from Mango Lassi to Mango-stuffed Samosas. Personally, I enjoy the fruit straight up. Naturals Ice Cream serves up fresh malai (cream/vanilla) ice cream over chunks of lucious fruit. In this heat or otherwise, it doesn’t get much better than that.

Malai over chopped Mango

HARE TRISHNA

Indian cheap eats, in my opinion, are some of the most delicious you can find in the world. I love a 40 rupee dosa as much as I love a 400 rupee tikka kabob. Still, there’s something to be said about the spectacular fine dining scene in Mumbai. To me, the mecca of upscale cuisine is a resturant in Khala Goda called Trishna.

Butter Garlic Pepper Crab = Food of the Gods

Diggin' into Butter Garlic Pepper Crab at Trishna

Tandoori Tiger Prawns--each one literally the size of a fist

By no means did I discover Trishna. On the contrary, critics at the NY Times and other publications worldwide have raved about the spectacularly prepared Indian-style seafood for years (and the restaurant is packed with tourists to prove it). Whereas my general attitude is to adroitly dodge touristy food joints, Trishna is quite simply too delicious to skip. My first visit was with Nick’s family (locals love the place, too) and I simply couldn’t believe how delicious the butter garlic pepper crab was. There isn’t enough greasy paratha in the world to sop up all its saucy buttery deliciousness. Bringing my mom and sister there was a no brainer, and (despite the exceedingly high expectations I set forth) they weren’t disappointed.

STREET EATS

Of course my mom and sister were only here for 8 days–hardly enough time for the stomach to acclimate to a full-on Indian eating experience. But, what is India if you don’t taste some of the street-like flavors?

Masala BBQ Corn on Carter Road

I took Chloe to the beachside promenade on Carter Road, where (my newfound) best friend, the cornwallah, bbqs up fresh corn. His method? Using a reed-thin paddle to feed the flames of his mini charcoal grill. Once the corn is delightfully charred, he smothers it in fresh nimbu (lemon/lime)  juice and spicy masala powder. The result is a lip-tanging, soul-satisfying piece of corn-on-the-cob. Indian style. It’s the closest flavor I can get to an American summer bbq, and I love it.

Strawberry and Pista (pistacio) Kulfi at New Kulfi Center in Chowpatty

We also spent a (very hot) afternoon walking around Chowpatty Beach. What better way to cool off than to eat some classically Indian ice cream, known as kulfi? Truthfully, the cubed frozen dessert is not my favorite, but it did its job to mitigate the oppressive heat.

Elco's Basket Chaat

I’ve discussed chaat (street food) in previous posts, but I thought it was super important that mom and Chloe taste some traditional street flavors. I took them to Elco in Bandra, where they specialize in safe and sanitary versions of street staples. Basket Chaat is one of the most popular types of Indian street food. Thanks to mango season, this unique interpretation came loaded with the fruit. Other contents include dahi (yogurt), aloo, chole, tamarind…the list goes on!

BANANAS FOR KERALA

Chloe relaxing on the Houseboat

Eight days is not long enough to spend in India, so in an effort to see more than just Mumbai, my mom, Chloe, and I took a trip to Allepey, a small backwater town in the southern state of Kerala. Kerala is renown for its lush landscapes, clean air, and it’s extraordinary literacy rate (99% of Keralan residents are literate– compared to a nationwide average literacy rate of just 74%). It was an opportunity for some serious R & R while simultaneously soaking up a different side of Indian culture and scenery.

Scrumptious Fried Bananas on the Keralan Backwaters

We went on a day-long trip exploring the Keralan backwaters, which must be one of the most peaceful places in the world. Back in the day, rice farmers and other merchants used these backwaters to transport goods around Kerala. Today, some businesses still thrive by these waters; however, tourism has given way to a robust industry, wherein these old and gorgeous rice boats were converted into slow-moving relaxation havens.

Mom and Chloe sit down for a south Indian feast on our houseboat on the Keralan Backwaters

Kerala is also equated with bananas. Whether thinly sliced and fried in coconut oil, making banana chips, or tossed into coconut curries, they are a staple of Keralan cuisine. We all went crazy for the deep-fried banana strips that accompanied our tea on the houseboat tour. Whenever I miss those flavors, I can simply reach for my 6-bag-deep stash of banana chips I brought home with me!