Dal’s Well that Ends Well

I’ve had a lot to reflect upon since I returned from India weeks ago. Returning to the US has given me tons to feel thankful for: greenery, clean streets, and most noteably–the astounding quiet. That being said, I feel extremely lucky to have had the experience I did in Mumbai and will deeply miss many aspects of life there. To no one’s surprise, high on my list of what I (already) miss, is the food.

MY 5 BITES

I’ve stolen a little tradition from one of my favorite DC food blogs, Metrocurean. Rather than posting my favorites bites for DC, I’ve stated my “5 Bites” for Mumbai. Those dishes, especially now that I’ve been gone for a while, are morsels that I miss desperately and insist that anyone who lands in Mumbai must try. Here they are (in no particular order):

1) Malai Ice Cream over Alphonso Mango Pieces– Natural Ice Cream

Enjoying my last Mango Malai on Marine Drive

2) Mysore Masala Dosa – Dosawallah on Juhu Tara road in Santa Cruz

3) Garlic, Black Pepper, Butter Crab – Trishna

4) Grilled Corn seasoned with Red Pepper, Salt, and Lime – Cornwallah on Carter Road

5) Palak Paneer with Tandoori Naan – Jaihind

I didn’t make these decisions lightly, as you can probably guess if you’ve been following this blog. Narrowing it down to 5 choices does injustice to the rest of the amazing food in the city.

I’M LOVIN’ IT

In my final weeks in Mumbai, I was feeling a whole gaggle of emotions. I struggled with the notion of leaving, yet yearned to be home and eat familiar food. I think this bicontinental conflict was rightly expressed through some of the meals I enjoyed in my final week.

McSpicy Paneer

Yes. I finally made it to McDonalds. My intrigue extended beyond the Indian-infused menu items. My neighborhood, Bandra, boasted the first McDonalds in India! Ok, if that’s not interesting to you, you might appreciate that the formerly desolate street is now also lined with the likes of KFC and other western fastfood wonders/atrocities. Unfortunately, the success of McDonalds paved the way for a slew of capitalistic dreams. Oh boy. If nothing else, this demonstrates how the city has changed tremendously over the past 20 years.

Nick enjoying his McSpicy Paneer at the first McDonalds in Mumbai

After eating the McSpicy Paneer, I have to say that I can understand how this place thrives. Spicy, crunchy explosion on the outside; tender and salty paneer on the inside. I’d eaten tons of paneer in India, but there was something about the texture of this paneer, along with the oh-so-familar soggy lettuce/sesame bun combo that hit a sentimental note and managed to merge my nostalgia for home with my love of Indian flavors.

NOT JUST A NYC AREA CODE

About a year ago, Nick’s cousin, Gaurav, opened an Italian resturant in downtown Mumbai called 212. Gaurav has had the good fortune of traveling around the world and even studied in the US. He knows about good food and he was tired of mediocre quality imitations of western food (of which there is much in Mumbai). With business ambition and a love a authentic Italian food, he hired a chef from Milan and opened 212.

Tomato, Buffalo Mozzarella, Arugula, and Pesto Salad at 212

Italian food is just about my favorite cuisine, so I had really high expectations for the restaurant. I also can’t pretend that I wasn’t a bit nervous to try the food and not like it!

Fortunately, 212 delivered on everything that I could possibly want out of Italian food. Gaurav takes care to import everything straight from Italy. The carbon footprint is undoubtably high, but the flavors are spectacular and super fresh. Plus, these were some of the flavor profiles I missed most from home.

Custom-made Seafood Linguine at 212

I went to 212 multiple times while in Mumbai, both for dinner and for drinks (they have a great outdoor patio). A highlight, however, was my final meal there, just days before departing for the US. My regular order of seafood pasta was no longer listed on the menu. No problem. The chef graciously whipped me up some fresh house-made linguine and stacked it high with calamari, prawns, and scallops. My heart sung. Then, crazily enough, I worried that I wouldn’t be able to find such a delicious equivalent back home. Either my next trip has to be to Italy, or I’ll have to hike it back to Mumbai to get my Italian fix.

MOVING FORWARD AND GOING BANANAS

I’ve thoroughly enjoyed writing this blog, and I wanted to find a way to continue writing during my upcoming year in London and beyond. I’ve broadened the scope of what I’m writing about, but the heart of it all remains the same: it’s about food.

If you’re interested, please check out my new blog, Banana Gulch. Why is it called Banana Gulch? You can read the “About Banana Gulch” page to hear all about it. Find it here:

www.bananagulch.wordpress.com

You can easily subscribe to Banana Gulch by clicking the “More Banana Gulch!” button at the top of the page and it will email you when I post something new.

Thank you so much to everyone who followed Read Dal About It and for your wonderful comments. Eat on!

Singin’ in the Rain

Goats like Snacks, too!

Two major events transpired over the past few weeks:

1) I was accepted into a Public Health Nutrition masters program in London that begins this fall.

2) Monsoon arrived in India.

Perhaps my graduate school acceptance is more consequential, as I’ll be leaving India in a mere two weeks, which is much sooner than I originally anticipated. But, alas, my Indian visa expires and I have little choice in the matter. The monsoon, however, feels in many ways like a more momentous event. For the past few weeks, we’ve been wallowing in a heat that can only be described as a sweat blanket. Merely standing up took unprecedented effort and no, air conditioning is not nearly as commonplace as we’re used to at home.

View of first Monsoon rains from our Living Room

So as you can imagine, the first rains were a legitimate cause for celebration! Kids were dancing in the streets, and the first fat raindrops drew the broadest smiles from all our neighbors. Even the ever-taciturn eggwallah delighted in a celebratory chat with me! There is no picture that can bring justice to the torrential downpours that have ensued, but the storms have been a’blowin and offer insurmountable respite from the intense heat.

FEASTING ON MY FAVES

Though monsoon has officially commenced, it’s not yet raining all day, every day, so I’m still trying to get out and, of course, eat at all my favorite digs before heading home.

Punjabi/Black/Makhani Dal nestled in Parantha

I’ve had the good fortune to explore a myriad of India’s regional cuisines (many of which I’ve discussed in this blog): South Indian, Goan, Parsi, Sindhi, Gujrati, Bengali, etc. But my favorite of all is still north Indian food. Chalk it up to my vicarious loyalty to Nick’s Punjabi roots, but I simply cannot get enough of the rich gravies and hot chewy breads.

Garlic Naan

Given the name of this blog, I should probably delve deeper into the overwhelming array of Dal recipes that are truly a staple in all Indian food, but again, I turn to the most typical north Indian version. Punjabi Dal (aka black dal , kali dal, or dal makhani) showcases, quite naturally, the urad lentil, or black split pea lentil. The recipe starts not unlike the majority of north Indian food recipes: sauteed onion, garlic, and ginger. Add the rinsed and soaked lentils with a tons of other spices (think fenugreek, mustard seed, garam masala, etc.) and some buttermilk. Let those flavors simmer and blend until you’re left with a viscous, super flavorful dish that, when paired with some fresh naan or parantha, is absolute heaven on the tastebuds.

Paneer Tikka

If we’re talking north Indian food, I simply can’t neglect to mention it’s largest point of pride: the kabob. Kabobs come in all different forms with all different proteins, and in my opinion, are all pretty darn delish. You can get dry kabobs, masala kabobs, tandoori kabobs, seikh kabobs (where meat is minced with yogurt then is molded to a skewer in the shape of a “hot dog”), kabob wrapped in a roti, paneer kabobs, chicken kabobs, lamb kabobs, …you get the picture!

Beyond the stick-to-your-ribs savory goodness of north Indian food, there are two post-meal treats that I especially relish. First, the waiter always brings each diner a small bowl full of hot water and nimbu, which you squeeze into the water as you wash your hands. North Indian food is typically eaten with your hands, and there’s nothing better and more refreshing.

After-Dinner "Mints"

Second, they always deliver a wonderful dish filled with anis and sugar cubes, which are known to aid in digestion. Not only do I find the candy-coated anis yummy and cleansing, I also think it looks beautiful.

NACHO ORDINARY MEXICAN FOOD

There’s no question about it–Indians are passionate about food. I’ve talked superficially about the tremendous dedication and pride behind creating locally-based cuisine, but beyond that, food just seems to always be a point of discussion. This is a cultural quality I’m totally on-board with, but when my coworkers digress over lunch into a heated debate comparing the merits of the Sindhi version of sai bhaji (prepared with extra chunky vegetables) versus the Gujrati variation (which has a smoother texture), I simply can’t keep up!

Churros with Dark Chocolate Dipping Sauce at Sancho's

One thing is for certain, though. There are plenty of Indians who are also interested in sampling the other cuisines this delicious world has to offer. Namely, Mexican food. There is a fabulous Mexican restaurant near our apartment in Bandra that serves up the likes of Lamb Taquitos, Prawn Fajitas, and my personal obsession: hot-out-of-the- fryer churros that come with a silky, rich dark chocolate dipping sauce. I could eat this plate 3 times over. The place is always stuffed to the gills with Indian families, who whole-heartedly devour heaps of nachos and gleefully slurp strawberry margaritas!

Celebrating with Cocktails at Sancho's

Leaving India for graduate school is bittersweet, of course, but I thought it would be appropriate to dine at Sancho’s, as it somehow seemed to celebrate both my Indian and American experiences. Punchy cocktails like the Cancun Tea and El Bandida Cosmopolitan didn’t hurt my cause, either.

BECAUSE PEOPLE LIKE TO SAY SALSA

I was inspired by Sancho’s Indo-Mexican love child and wanted to bring some Mexican goodness into my own kitchen. Thanks to my wonderful mother (who literally lugged six cans of black beans to India for her visit), I’ve been happy as a clam making batches of the black bean salsa/salad I used to make back in the US. A few of my friends here tried it and really liked it, so I thought I’d put the recipe up on the blog. Please forgive the fact that these measurements aren’t exact (I don’t have measuring spoons or cups…), but mess around with it a few times and you’re sure to cater the flavors to suit your particular tastes. Eat the salad as a side dish or throw over chips to make hearty nachos, as I did here!

Mountain of Nachos with homemade Bean Salsa

BLACK BEAN SALSA

Ingredients:

1 can Black Beans, drained and rinsed

3/4 small Red Onion, finely diced

2 Roma Tomatoes, diced

1 Green Pepper, diced

1 small Jalapeno, diced

1 ear Corn, kernels removed (optional)

1 teaspoon Kosher Salt

Dressing

2 large cloves Garlic, finely minced

2 tbsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1/4 cup Balsamic Vinegar

1/8 cup Red Wine Vinegar

1/2 tbsp ground Cumin

1/2 tbsp Smoked Paprika

1/4 ground Coriander

Kosher salt to taste

Preparation:

Bring a small pot of lightly salted water to a boil and toss in the corn. Let boil for about 5 minutes, or until tender (but still crunchy). Drain and set aside to cool.

Toss beans, onion, tomatoes, green pepper, and jalapeno, cooled corn and a teaspoon of salt into a bowl and gently mix.

In a separate bowl, whisk together the Dressing ingredients, then pour the Dressing over the bean mixture.

Toss all ingredients together and salt to taste. Cool in the refrigerator for at least 15 minutes before enjoying!

Anything manGoes

Mangowallah in Crawford Market

Late April/early May marks a very special time in India: Mango Season. Now, I was already looking forward to those weeks because my mom and sister, Chloe, were coming to visit; however their sojourn, in conjunction with the arrival of this glorious fruit, made for an excellent, excellent combo. It was so wonderful having my family here and the week was jam-packed with activity (including a trip to Kerala–see below). I did my very best to share with them my favorite food haunts in Mumbai whilst indulging in as much mango as humanly possible along the way…

ALPHONSO, MY LOVE

Alphonso Mangoes for lunch: my Dream

I’ve always been a lover of mangoes. In fact, it’s difficult me to to walk into a Thai restaurant in the US without ordering mango sticky rice (yum). Indian mangoes, however, are on a whole different playing field. Americans are accustomed to Mexican mangoes (for the most part). In fact, there are laws against importing lush Indian mangoes to the land of milk and honey. Why? Something having to do with pests…regardless, I had never sampled an Indian mango until I arrived here.

If we’re talking Indian mangoes, the I must introduce the mama of all mangoes: the Alphonso mango. A decent bite into this fruit will leave your arm dripping with juice and your mouth full of happiness. In fact, there’s no reason I would recommend coming to India during this prohibitively hot time of year other than to get your paws on one of these jewels.

Me Encanta Mango

People here are as crazy about mango as I am. Restaurants city-wide have infused their menus with seasonal riffs–everything from Mango Lassi to Mango-stuffed Samosas. Personally, I enjoy the fruit straight up. Naturals Ice Cream serves up fresh malai (cream/vanilla) ice cream over chunks of lucious fruit. In this heat or otherwise, it doesn’t get much better than that.

Malai over chopped Mango

HARE TRISHNA

Indian cheap eats, in my opinion, are some of the most delicious you can find in the world. I love a 40 rupee dosa as much as I love a 400 rupee tikka kabob. Still, there’s something to be said about the spectacular fine dining scene in Mumbai. To me, the mecca of upscale cuisine is a resturant in Khala Goda called Trishna.

Butter Garlic Pepper Crab = Food of the Gods

Diggin' into Butter Garlic Pepper Crab at Trishna

Tandoori Tiger Prawns--each one literally the size of a fist

By no means did I discover Trishna. On the contrary, critics at the NY Times and other publications worldwide have raved about the spectacularly prepared Indian-style seafood for years (and the restaurant is packed with tourists to prove it). Whereas my general attitude is to adroitly dodge touristy food joints, Trishna is quite simply too delicious to skip. My first visit was with Nick’s family (locals love the place, too) and I simply couldn’t believe how delicious the butter garlic pepper crab was. There isn’t enough greasy paratha in the world to sop up all its saucy buttery deliciousness. Bringing my mom and sister there was a no brainer, and (despite the exceedingly high expectations I set forth) they weren’t disappointed.

STREET EATS

Of course my mom and sister were only here for 8 days–hardly enough time for the stomach to acclimate to a full-on Indian eating experience. But, what is India if you don’t taste some of the street-like flavors?

Masala BBQ Corn on Carter Road

I took Chloe to the beachside promenade on Carter Road, where (my newfound) best friend, the cornwallah, bbqs up fresh corn. His method? Using a reed-thin paddle to feed the flames of his mini charcoal grill. Once the corn is delightfully charred, he smothers it in fresh nimbu (lemon/lime)  juice and spicy masala powder. The result is a lip-tanging, soul-satisfying piece of corn-on-the-cob. Indian style. It’s the closest flavor I can get to an American summer bbq, and I love it.

Strawberry and Pista (pistacio) Kulfi at New Kulfi Center in Chowpatty

We also spent a (very hot) afternoon walking around Chowpatty Beach. What better way to cool off than to eat some classically Indian ice cream, known as kulfi? Truthfully, the cubed frozen dessert is not my favorite, but it did its job to mitigate the oppressive heat.

Elco's Basket Chaat

I’ve discussed chaat (street food) in previous posts, but I thought it was super important that mom and Chloe taste some traditional street flavors. I took them to Elco in Bandra, where they specialize in safe and sanitary versions of street staples. Basket Chaat is one of the most popular types of Indian street food. Thanks to mango season, this unique interpretation came loaded with the fruit. Other contents include dahi (yogurt), aloo, chole, tamarind…the list goes on!

BANANAS FOR KERALA

Chloe relaxing on the Houseboat

Eight days is not long enough to spend in India, so in an effort to see more than just Mumbai, my mom, Chloe, and I took a trip to Allepey, a small backwater town in the southern state of Kerala. Kerala is renown for its lush landscapes, clean air, and it’s extraordinary literacy rate (99% of Keralan residents are literate– compared to a nationwide average literacy rate of just 74%). It was an opportunity for some serious R & R while simultaneously soaking up a different side of Indian culture and scenery.

Scrumptious Fried Bananas on the Keralan Backwaters

We went on a day-long trip exploring the Keralan backwaters, which must be one of the most peaceful places in the world. Back in the day, rice farmers and other merchants used these backwaters to transport goods around Kerala. Today, some businesses still thrive by these waters; however, tourism has given way to a robust industry, wherein these old and gorgeous rice boats were converted into slow-moving relaxation havens.

Mom and Chloe sit down for a south Indian feast on our houseboat on the Keralan Backwaters

Kerala is also equated with bananas. Whether thinly sliced and fried in coconut oil, making banana chips, or tossed into coconut curries, they are a staple of Keralan cuisine. We all went crazy for the deep-fried banana strips that accompanied our tea on the houseboat tour. Whenever I miss those flavors, I can simply reach for my 6-bag-deep stash of banana chips I brought home with me!

Life in the Food Lane

Freshly-Squeezed Pineapple and Watermelon Juice

These past few weeks have been a whirlwind. Aside from starting work with an Indian organization called Dasra (www.dasra.org), I’ve been busy adjusting to life here and settling into a genuine routine. I’ve also had some time to relax and reflect upon my time here. Mumbai, for better or for worse, is a city that forces you to be an active participant in your own life. There’s no gliding through your days here or going on emotional autopilot. It is the constant stimulation and in-your-face humanity around you that inspires regular refections and analysis. Though not without suffering moments of extreme frustration, I feel more mentally alert and emotionally engaged in this city than I often did back home, and that makes me happy.

All this stimulation extends beyond the cityscape and its inhabitants and leads me, naturally, to the food! I wanted to take some time in this post to share some of my food experiences–ranging from eating freshly-made dosa at a local street vendor to enjoying top-notch dim sum at a posh Bandra restaurant.

IT’S MY PARSI AND I’LL CRY IF I WANT TO

Britannia Cafe, serving up traditional Parsi food since 1918

A few weeks ago, I met a mutual friend who grew up in Bandra and who is Parsi. Present-day Parsis are a small, but vocal community in Mumbai. Originally of Iranian decent, Parsis have their own wonderful food tradition that is an intrinsic part of the city’s food history. Once we agreed to meet for lunch, he immediately suggested that we check out his favorite Parsi diner in the beautiful and historical neighborhood of Fort in south Mumbai. It’s always a good sign when you show up at a restaurant in the middle of the day and the line spills onto the sidewalk. Britannia & Company opened its doors in 1918 and has been a staple of classic, simple, and absolutely delicious Parsi cuisine-served in the most unpretentious and homey setting-ever since.

Sali Boti - Sali Chicken with fried crispies on top

Among the flavor-packed dishes we ordered were Chicken Berry Pulao (a Parsi classic) and Sali Boti. The Berry Pulao is a rice dish (kind of like the texture of a biryani, but seasoned very differently) and is speckled with little jewels of tart red berries. Rumor has it that Britannia imports these crimson gems from Iran; authenticity is no joke here. Personally, I loved the Sali Boti, and not only because it was topped with crispy wafers. The flavors were so rich and sultry that each bite was literally a tastebud explosion. I may have to go back this weekend.

DO-SA-DO

One of the benefits of working with lots of locals is that they can lead me to the best street food and, because these places have been tried and true, I don’t have to worry (as much) about getting sick. One of my favorite places we’ve gone is to a dosawallah around the corner from the office.

Hello, Dosawallah

Masala Dosa -- Made to Order

I’ll get back to south Indian food (which the dosa is) in a later post, but to offer the basics: the dosa “wrap” is made of dal or lentil flour and the dosa comes with all types of fillings, most of which include some combination of aloo (potatoes) and vegetables. It’s a relatively light way to experience Indian food, but don’t be fooled; I saw them slip some ghee into the mix during preparation…but let’s be honest, it makes it all the tastier.

Steamed Pork Buns at Royal China

I was also happy to retreat from the streets and enjoy a wonderful chinese meal at a trendy Bandra spot called Royal China. I have to admit that I really miss good dim sum, and up until last weekend, my experiences told me that anything dim-sum-esque was most likely either deep fried or a bunch of veggies casually thrown into tooth-deep dough. But, alas, Nick discovered this upscale joint and we weren’t disappointed. Not only did we get paper-thin shrimp and chive dumplings, but we also had steamed pork buns! It really took me back to my days working in Flushing, NY.

I Love My Fishes cause theyre so Delicious

FEELS LIKE HOME…KIND OF

I promised that I would update on my experimentations with Indian cooking, and now I plan to deliver. I must admit, my attempts have been feeble at best, but it’s really tough to swallow a mouthful of mediocre masala when I can get such delicious and authentic food on my corner. Anyway, attempt I did, and here are some highlights:

The Palak and the Paneer, ready to go

Palak Paneer (aka Saag Paneer) is a staple in most Indian restaurants in the US and has always been a favorite of mine. Here, both palak (spinach) and paneer (cottage cheese) are super-affordable and also reasonably healthy. This is a recipe I’ll definitely attempt again.

Homemade Palak Paneer with a Ginger Garnish

I also made a version of ghobi (cauliflower). This recipe called for a ginger-garlic-onion base (as do most Indian recipes), but also includes tomato paste and lots of spices like cumin, turmeric, and coriander.

Ghobi

Though I love my paneer, one of things I miss the most from home is good cheese. Nick and I had his cousins over for dinner at our apartment, and both of us agreed that we wanted to prepare for them a classic American meal: Mac and Cheese and BBQ pulled chicken. We were able to scrounge up some decent cheese selections from a food specialty store and used the cheddar Nick’s dad had brought for us from back home.

Stick-to-your-Ribs Mac and Cheese

It didn’t really occur to Nick or me that his cousins would not associate this meal with the comforts of summer picnics and slip-and-slides, but I think they enjoyed the flavors nonetheless. We also really savored the leftovers!

The Kapur Clan enjoying a Classic American Meal

India is Goa-rgeous

The past couple of weeks were punctuated by some of the most memorable events in India thus far. Not only was my friend and kindred spirit, Allie, here for a week-long visit (!), but on Saturday, India won the Cricket World Cup. There’s lots to report, so I’ll get down to it.

WAKE ME UP BEFORE YOU GOA GOA

Only one day after Allie arrived in Mumbai (bright-eyed and in great spirits), we decided to take a trip to southern beaches of Palolem, Goa. Goa is the state just south of Maharashtra and is (in)famous for its expansive beaches and hippie rave scene. Allie–having just finished with her grueling med school exams and I–looking for a serious city retreat–were mostly interested in enjoying some solid R & R (and each others’ company, of course). We stayed in a great little beach hut compound just far enough from the row of touristy bungalows that lined the sandy beach, and delighted in the peace and quiet it offered.

 

 

Relaxing after lunch at Ordo Sounsar

Local boys playing a make-shift Cricket match on Palolem Beach

Al on Palolem Beach

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Goa, like most other regions of India, boasts its own culinary traditions. Goan cuisine, coming from the coast and all, showcases fresh, succulent seafood as its star player. Prawns, white fish, and squid are most commonly seared and then set to simmer in full-bodied, coconut-based gravies. Ranging from more viscous and earthy curries to light-handed and delicate sauces, each Goan dish we tasted was immensely flavorful and gracefully allowed the seafood to shine.

Goan Fish Curry and Basmati Rice

Garlic and Chili Prawns in a tomato-based gravy with Chapati

Super delicious grilled Fish with a Goan salad

 

 

 

 

 

 

Though the gravy-style dishes were delicious (especially when served over hot basmati rice and with fresh chapati), we especially savored a small but flavor-packed white fish, grilled whole and served along a simple cabbage, onion, and tomato salad. It’s hard to top a perfectly cooked fish caught that morning at the doorstep of the restaurant’s kitchen.

 

 

RETURN TO THE CITY

Absolute Mumbai

Back in Mumbai, Al and I jam-packed our schedule, striving for a delicate balance between sightseeing, eating, shopping, and pampering.

 

 

Among our stops were Mahalaxmi Temple and Dhobi Ghat. Dhobi Ghat is Mumbai’s largest outdoor laundry mat and is where all the dhobiwallahs of Mumbai bring clothing to be washed. Most Mumbaikars can’t understand what makes Dhobi Ghat so remarkable to foreigners, but the rows of color-coordinated laundry billowing in the breeze above the concrete maze of washbins where they were cleaned is truly an amazing and unique sight.

Powder used for Hindu markings, outside Mahalaxmi Temple

Dhobi Ghat

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

FOOD FOR THOUGHT

A day of sightseeing inevitably leaves you famished, so Nick and I took Al to some of our favorite neighborhood digs like Soul Fry, Jaihind, The Bagel Shop, and Candies for refueling.

Upon a recommendation, we also tried a popular North Indian spot in Colaba after seeing the Gateway to India and Taj Hotel.

Eating delicious North Indian food at Delhi Dabar in Colaba: Tandoori Chicken, Punjabi Dal, and Mutton Seikh Kabobs from Delhi Dabar

More Roomali Roti! It's so thin, you can see the light shine through it.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The week also brought with it an additional culinary gift: an oven. Though our apartment came with a two-burner stovetop, I was feeling somewhat limited in my cooking options. Nick and I finally decided to purchase a 28-liter toaster/convection oven. Though it doesn’t hold a candle to a larger gas oven, it really does the trick for basic roasting and baking. With our shiny new appliance as a beacon of inspiration, we planned an impromptu dinner for some gora (ex-pat) friends and enjoyed a lively meal at our humble abode.

Shopping for Assorted Veggies on Pali Mala to Cook Dinner

Spinach, Grilled Onion, and Feta Chicken Burgers; Tzatziki Sauce; Summer Orzo Salad with Roasted Eggplant, Tomatoes, and Basil

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

INDIA WINS THE CRICKET WORLD CUP!

There are few things that could round off what was already such an extraordinary week, but on Saturday, when India won the world cup of cricket, we were absolutely thrilled. Nick’s father had just arrived from the US, so ordered take-out to our apartment for lunch and dinner while glued to the match. Cricket in India is regarded with as much admiration and followed with as much ardor as any religion. In a country where castes, socio-economic divides, and skin color all-too-often dictate social and political interactions, cricket is a platform for a shared Indian experience and passion.

Admittedly a non-comital sports spectator (shocking), I actually got really into the cricket finals and genuinely enjoyed the nail-biting moments before Dhoni hit a 6 and brought home the win for India.

A Crowd of Men gathered outside a Restaurant watching the Cricket Match

The reverie was unlike anything I’ve ever seen. The city was alight with copious firework displays, and people rushed to all of Mumbai’s main thoroughfares in fervent celebration of a nation’s shared victory.

View of the fireworks from my bedroom window after India won the Cricket World Cup!!

Celebrations on Carter Road in Bandra

Joining the celebratory Bandwagon in standstill traffic on Carter Road

Holi Moly

Just the beginning of Holi Day -- many more colors to come!

Holi is the Hindu religious festival that celebrates, among other things, the arrival of spring. Unlike my own traditions of spending those first spring days walking leisurely among sleepy cherry blossom trees or gratifyingly sipping beer on an open-air restaurant patio, in India, the traditions are bigger, louder, and exploding with color and life. Holi is the one day of the year when all revelers, ages 2 to 92, freely run the streets, throwing paint and water colors at everyone and everything is sight. The city is literally aglow with every color imaginable and no one is safe from a friendly stranger, who may wish you Happy Holi with a fistful of paint to the face.

Taking a much needed breather!

Feeling like a Kid again

Nick’s Madhu auntie and cousins, Shagun and Gaurav, invited us to celebrate Holi at their spectacular house in Alibaug. Alibaug is a coastal town about 45 minutes (via ferry) south of Mumbai, and is a popular weekend getaway spot. It was a fantastic opportunity to escape city life for a couple of days and spend some quality time with Nick’s family and their friends, a crowd that totaled to nearly 40 people.

Nick's cousins take a quick break from Holi madness to wave hello!

 

Sunday’s Holi celebrations exceeded any and all of my expectations. The opennesss, comraderie, and spirit with which people douse each other in vibrant colors speaks to a greater theme of optimism in the Indian heart and a real passion and appreciation for having a good time. Nick and I both agreed that this is one tradition we definitely plan on bringing back with us to the States. Get ready.

FOOD TALK

Holi wasn’t the only new experience for me this week. I also spent some serious time delving deeper into my explorations of Indian cuisine. The more I learn about Indian food, with its extraordinary range of local and regional variations, the more determined I am to sample it all and somehow discern its infinite nuances.

Thali Platter

Eating thali (pronounced tawli) is a fabulous way to taste the diverse flavors of Gujarati cuisine. Gujarat is the state just north of Maharashtra (Mumbai’s state) with a culinary tradition that has earned bragging rights across India. As a thali diner, you can expect two things: an opportunity to sample a range of Gujarati food and to leave feeling more full than you you ever dreamed possible. Traditional thali is all vegetarian and is served on a huge platter piled high with small dishes, or farsan. Then, as if sent on a mission to push all boundaries of physical consumption, your waiter regularly passes by the table, refilling your empty dishes and loading your plate with hot-off-the-pan chapati and roti. Only after benevolently insisting that you top your freshly prepared bread with simmering ghee, will the waiter leave you to tackle this Everest of food. It is part dim sum, part buffet, and a unique Indian dining experience. Without question, I will eat thali again, but next time I’ll come armed with an empty stomach and a good pair of elastic-waisted pants. The typical assortment includes:

Two to Three Vegetable Preparations: also known as shaak, these veg preparations can be spicy, stir-fried, or even sweet. My favorite was some combination of sauteed ocra (which they call lady-fingers) and palak (spinach), with hints of cumin and lime, served at room temperature

Dal or Kahdi: the kadhi we tried was the popular rice and mung bean dal, which had a salty/sweet tomato base

Rice: classic, clean white rice to sop up all the juicy sauces

Papad: also known as papadum (a thin, crisp, Indian-style flatbread)

Chaas: The buttermilk concoction on my platter walked the line between sweet and savory. It was garnished with freshly crushed cardamom and pistachios (indicating dessert), but it was served alongside the veggies. I wasn’t sure if I was supposed to splash it over my rice or sip it at the close of the meal. I tried both and decided either solution yields tasty results.

SOME SAVORY STAPLES

Spicy Squid and Palak Paneer at Jaihind

Roomali Roti: "Roomali" is the Hindi word for Handkerchief, and this bread earned its name because it is thin as a tissue, yet strong enough to scoop up all sorts of saags and masalas. If it's on the menu, I order it.

BEST Shrimp Biryani from Jaihind

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A friend recently took me to a small hole-in-the-wall restaurant called Jaihind. A mere two blocks from my apartment, Jaihind casually serves up some of the most flavorful and delicious Indian food I’ve ever eaten. The palak paneer was both light and hearteningly rich and the shrimp biryani balanced myriad spices in perfect harmony. Plus, each and every shrimp was cooked to absolute perfection. If there were ever a neighborhood joint to frequent, this would be it, and I intend to do so with uninhibited enthusiasm.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

PAN, BABY PAN

Pan

If you walk down any given street in India, you’ll usually spot a vendor or wallah selling pan. Pan is a palm-sized betel leaf filled with all sorts of “goodies,” and a single serving is commonly chewed on with trance-like concentration for hours at a time. Pan is chewed as a palette cleanser, a breath freshener, or even as a digestive aid. There are many local variations, but most pan contains areca nuts as a filling.

Panwallah, serving up Pan to the post-lunch crowds

Personally, I’ve sampled the sweet pan, where sugar, candied fruit, and multi-colored, sweetened, candy-like fennel seeds are skillfully tucked within the confines of the verdant betel leaf. Most foreigners I’ve met (myself included), find the flavor faaar too intense for what is supposed to be a post-meal wind-down; however, the pan tradition is alive and well in Indian cuisine, so perhaps in due time I’ll come to appreciate this flavorful bite.

Pali Hill

Veggies set out next to our two-burner Gas Stove.

We’ve found a home! Last week, Nick and I finally settled into our apartment in the northern suburb called Bandra West. Located about 45-minutes (via taxi) north of Town, Bandra is quickly becoming the stomping grounds for Mumbai’s young professionals. Because the majority of India’s Bollywood studios are in Bandra, Bollywood stars galore have settled along the hilly streets, bringing with them some of the city’s best restaurants, cafes and clubs.

This may be the only time in my life where I will opt to live in the “suburbs,” but the truth is that Bandra hardly resembles the suburbs as we know them at home in the US. On the contrary, Bandra strikes a wonderful balance between urban and rural. Narrow, tree-lined, cobble-stoned streets infuse the neighborhood with a quaint vibe, yet the countless shops and restaurants offer an extraordinary convenience that would impress even the most die-hard New Yorker.

My Veggie Vendor of choice on Pali Mala

Fresh Vegetables at a Vendor Stand on Pali Mala Road

STAND BY ME

Far and away, what has thrilled me the most about our recent move to Bandra, is the incredible accessibility to vegetables. Just a block from our apartment, the serpentine road, Pali Mala, is lined from top-to-bottom with fruit and vegetable vendors. It is truly a feast for the eyes and the palette. Every day, I have the great pleasure of walking through this market, selecting the choicest vegetables. With so many options, it can be slightly overwhelming to find the right vendor. My first day out, I found one vendor who sold quality produce without any attempts at ripping me off. That was enough to sell me! I’ve returned regularly, but am also eager to check out some of the other vendors, as well.

Veggie-Lover's Delight

Beyond the standard vegetables like tomatoes, spinach, broccoli, etc. that I often pick up, I’ve also enjoyed testing out some of the Indian market’s unique offerings. For example, I’ve found that cucumbers here are pale green and about the size of a large pickle. The seeds are smaller and they are crisper than what I’m accustomed to. They are perfect for chopping up and mixing with dahi (yogurt) to make raita. I also add red carrots to the raita. That’s right, blood-red carrots are commonplace this time of year and are even sweeter than the familiar orange variety we get at home. They really pop in a homemade yogurt dip.

ON THE STREET WHERE WE LIVE

Eeeegg-cellent. Egg Vendor on Pali Road, just outside our Apartment. The "38" written in chalk means a dozen eggs sell for 38 rupees that day, about 70 cents.

Aside from the extraordinary assortment of vegetables, our neighborhood offers up myriad delights for the at-home cook. Now that we’re finally situated with a kitchen, albeit without an oven, I’m so happy to be cooking again! I’ve been deeply inspired by the vegetables and grains, so easily available, that we’ve scaled back on eating out (for now) and I’m basking in the joy of being in the kitchen.

 

Rice, Rice Baby

Vibrant Lentils and Split Peas

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I have yet to really venture into Indian cooking (in large part because it is so easy to buy and of such incredible quality), but I’m setting the goal for myself to prepare a new Indian dish at least once every two weeks. That may sound infrequent, but when I’m at my apartment, I’ve really enjoyed cooking some of the foods that are most familiar to me. With such amazing and affordable produce, I already feel at great liberty to riff on home-style comfort food, like the Grilled Cheese sandwiches I made for our first lunch at home.

Homemade Grilled Cheese with Tomato, Grilled Onions, and a Fried Egg

In addition to the grilled cheese, I’ve also used abundant vegetables to make the likes of teriyaki stir-fry with silken tofu, spicy garlic-hummus, and rigatoni riddled with tomatoes and fresh pesto. As for my efforts at Indian cuisine, I’ll be sure to track all trials and tribulations on this blog.

Pala Mala Road at Dusk

Pali Hill Road--Our Street!

Delhi Belly

Popcorn man serving up fresh snacks outside the Bahai Temple

The prophecy of Delhi Belly rings true–all travelers in India, upon reaching Delhi, tend to fall ill. Perhaps it was the copious amounts of street food (see: Cal-Cutta It Out) that did me in. Or, perhaps my body was telling me it was time to rest. Regardless, I spent my first 4 days in Delhi unable to eat much of anything–a tragic way to start my first visit to a new city. Luckily, a quick round of antibiotics revived my body and soul, and I hit the ground running, exploring Delhi’s delicious culinary offerings and its spectacular sights.

LESSONS IN COOKING

Nick has a ton of family living in Delhi and we stayed with his Pami auntie for the week. One of the many great benefits of this arrangement is we got relax and eat some fabulous home-cooked meals.

Flavorful Chicken Biryani, served family-style

Typical delicious lunch at Pami Aunties: bean/veg salad, yuka fritters with cumin and turmeric, steamed puri with vegetable curry

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As a small gesture of gratitude for the tremendous hospitality the family extended toward us, Nick and I decided to bring a little of our home cooking to India. Nick requested enchiladas, so a Mexican feast we had! I was pleasantly surprised to find products like salsa verde, monterey jack cheese, and margarita mix at the local Nature’s Basket (India’s closest store to Whole Foods).

Suchitra teaching me how to make homemade Sour Cream

 

 

 

 

 

 

I worked in the kitchen with Suchitra, teaching her the recipe. In return, she taught me how to make homemade sour cream, which tastes slightly more sour than what you find in the states, but is absolutely delicious and fresh.

Fresh Yogurt hangs in a Cheesecloth for about 12 hours before it becomes Sour Cream

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

COCKTAIL HOUR

Chiku preparing Vodka Gol Gappas (aka vodka puri or vodka puchka)

In my last post, I talked about puchkas, the hallow-out fried bread filled with goodies. In Delhi, they call puchkas gol gappas, and they are no less dangerous. A popular nighttime variation of this treat is to replace the pani (water) with vodka.

The gol gappa Nick and I tried was filled with something like this:

-fried puri

-aloo (potatoes mashed or finely diced)

-dash of cumin

-tamarind sauce

-1-2 ounces of Vodka

Sampling the Gol Gappas and learning what it feels like to chew vodka

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

FINER DINING

In Delhi, we also sampled some fantastic international food. Nick’s family took us to the oh-so-trendy Set’z restaurant, located atop one of the fanciest malls I’ve ever entered. Delhi, it seems, is filled with its fair share of citizens with cash to burn–chalk it up to it being a government town… Set’z served everything from Japanese to Italian, a “versatility” that usually leaves me skeptical, but the food was well-done, the flavors were authentic, and the presentation gorgeous.

Getting my pasta fix: whole wheat spaghetti with red chilies, garlic, sundried tomatoes, and pesto breadcrumbs.

The Kapur/Bathla cousins on the patio at Set'z

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

AGRA

I couldn’t go to Delhi without touring some of the countries most spectacular sights. In the city itself, I checkout out India Gate, Humayun’s Tomb, and the President’s House. The real highlight, however, was the day trip Nick and I took to Agra to see the Taj Mahal and Fatehpur Sikri. Agra is about a 4-hour drive from the capital. Not only did I enjoy the sights themselves, but I relished in seeing some of India’s rural country-side. My trip has been so urban-heavy! Here are a few pictures from our day in Agra:

Classic Photo in front of the Taj Mahal in Agra

Hangin' at the Taj, people watching

Nick in front of the Taj Mahal!

The Mosque at Taj Mahal

Sleepy pup napping in Fatehpur Sikri

Fatehpur Sikri--over 2000 years older than the Taj Mahal.

Cal-Cutta It Out

Nick and I spent the past week in Calcutta/Kolkata and had a blast. The laid back and quieter setting made for a nice reprieve from the hectic streets of Mumbai. I was also pleasantly surprised to see that the wider sidewalks made it much easier to travel by foot–my favorite way to take in a city. It is no wonder why Calcutta is considered the “intellectual capital of India.” People highly value education and the city is teeming with universities. College Street, in north Calcutta, holds some of the oldest coffee shops in town, where for generations, professors would sit and engage in adda (intellectual debate). The area is now pretty dilapidated, but I think it represents the character the city has. I had a couple of priorities while I was there: 1) To take in some of the sights–Calcutta is particularly known for both its colonial architecture and its mosques and 2) Eat.

CHAAT n’ CHEW

Chaat is the hindi word for street food, and Calcutta is a perfect place to sample some of India’s best. Here are a few of the delectable snacks I sampled:

Hot Kati Roll--Ready to Eat!

Open Egg Chicken Kati Roll

The kati roll (or kathi roll) is a Calcutta speciality. You can find food stands up and down Park Street (the main drag) that serve up paneer, chicken, and mutton versions of this classic. I indulged in the road-side snack more than once during my stay here. This would be the ultimate late-night snack, but I should count myself lucky that Hot Kati Roll, my venue of choice, closed at 11pm.

Kati Roll Chef preparing my Egg Chicken roll

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here’s how they make it:

1) Take freshly-made paratha dough and roll it out until it has a diameter of about 7 inches

2) Throw the dough onto what looks like a well seasoned, flat wok that holds about 2 inches of hot oil

3) Crack an egg on top of the dough and scramble that egg, Flip the bread multiple times until it is golden brown and saturated with scrambled-eggy goodness

4) Simultaneously, throw well season chicken chunks (or meat of your choice) onto the wok with red onion and green sweet peppers

5) Remove the bread from the heat and place the meat/onion/pepper mixture on top (see pictures)

6) Add sweet ketchup, hot sauce, raw red onion, and hot green chilies on top.

7) Roll up, wrap in thin paper, and enjoy while hot!

Yogurt-Filled Puchkas

Kati rolls were not the only chaat we tried. Puchkas are another common street food across India. Though they come in many varieties, the basic construct is a hollow, fried, egg-sized bread shell that is filled with various treats. A standard eat is the pani puchka, which is typically filled with aloo (potato mashed with Indian spices) and topped with a flavored water. My favorite was the dali puchka, which was filled with yogurt/curd and topped with fried crunchy squigglies. They were almost too beautiful to eat, but somehow I managed.

 

 

Indo-Chinese is also extremely popular, and super tasty. These fried noodles tossed in a light soy, ginger and sesame dressing were a huge hit with Nick.

Indo-Chinese Crunchies

Nick looooves the Crunchies

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BENGALI FEAST

I had heard wonderful things about Bengali food and was eager to eat an authentic meal. Nick’s two co-workers, Puja and Rajrupa, were phenomenal hosts to us the entire week–going above and beyond any standard of hospitality that I’ve ever seen to ensure we enjoyed Calcutta. For our final lunch, they took us to a small Bengali joint called Kasturi. It was nothing fancy, just a few casual wooden tables serving up exceptional food, all of which we ate in traditional Bengali style–with our hands.

A Traditional Bengali Spread that includes lots of fish, veggies, and mustard. My favorite of the spread was the prawns with shredded yam leaves (kochu) cooked in mustard oil (top left in photo). The mustard wasn't too overpowering, yet it did an excellent job of clearing the nasal passages.

Patuli means "wrapped in a banana leaf" and this flaky white fish was steamed to perfection in a grainy mustard sauce inside this banana leaf.

Rajrupa, Puja and me, happy and full after our Bengali meal at Kasturi.

Town

Mumbai is an immense city. Here are some basic facts comparing it to my hometown of DC:

Trying to hold up the Gateway to India

Size

DC→ 68.9 sq. miles

Mumbai→ 233 sq. miles

Population

DC→ 599,657

Mumbai→ 13,818,719

 

In other words, Mumbai is essentially 3 times the size of DC, yet approximately 23 times as populated. It was both the sheer size and the incredible volume of inhabitants that shocked me the most in my first days here. Within this oh-so-large and oh-so-highly populated city, Nick and I commenced our stay living in South Mumbai, casually referred to as “Town” by Bombayites. It is also known as Old Bombay, because it is where, historically, Indians conducted the Spice Trade and first developed into a metropolis. It also happens to be where the British settled ground, and there is no shortage of British architecture and other relics to remind tourists and locals alike of a colonized past.

Marine Drive Nightshot

This stretch on Marine Drive is called the Queen's Necklace

Speaking of the colonial legacy, for the past two weeks, Nick and I have resided at the Cricket Club of India (CCI). CCI is one of the original sports “gymkhanas” that was founded by the British in 1933.  It has certainly offered some perspective on the socio-economic make-up of the city. Without a doubt, this city exhibits the largest wealth discrepancy I’ve ever seen, and staying at the CCI puts Nick and me in the wealth bubble. That being said, and in an effort to reserve that brand of analysis for another time, the familiarity of a place like CCI has eased the transition from our Western comforts to this foreign, eastern city.

One of the many Colonial-Age buildings in South Mumbai

Oval Maiden

Currey Road Train Station

KHALA GODA ARTS FESTIVAL

Khala Goda in the daytime

Every year, Mumbai hosts a huge festival to showcase Indian art. Over 100 booths were set up in the neighborhood of Khala Goda, in south Mumbai. The festival also hosted a series of free workshops and performances by local and national performers. It was a real pleasure to peruse the different art installations and booths. I really had to resist the urge to buy anything, a temptation that was mitigated by the thought of having to navigate through the throngs of people.

Entrance to the Festival

Nighttime at Khala Goda Festival

Interactive Art: People can write anything they want on this table

Art Table

Tree wearing a Sari

Food Counters at the festival

FOOD NIBBLES

Spice Shop in Lower Parel

My culinary education has gotten off to a great start. With the exception of real street food (which I’m avoiding for the time being until my stomach is more accustomed to the water here), I’ve tried every new food I can get my paws on. I’ve tasted traditional tandoori and tikka kebabs and masalas while also sampling more western interpretations of Indian food, like the roasted chicken sandwich with melted gruyere and mango-apple chutney I ate at Good Earth. Seeing as this post is already getting quite long, I’ll save a lot of food morsels for the next post. Here are a few of the treats I’ve enjoyed and the food scene I’ve witnessed:

Famous Brywaji Sweets--a gift from Nick's co-worker

Indigo Deli is a trendy offshoot of its more upscale sister restaurant, Indigo. The deli is located near the famous Taj hotel and is inevitably a tourist hotspot. Gringo patrons aside, the food was delicious, and it had a stellar cheese, meat, and bread counter. They also make and package their own olives, peppers, and super-grainy mustard, which I bought a jar of promptly after finishing lunch.

Freshly Baked Western-Style Breads at Indigo Deli

Blue Cheese and Sharp Cheddar from Indigo Deli

Cheese Counter at Indigo Deli

Whereas the deli offered a selection of cheeses of the French and Italian variety (which I always love), I’ve also become a huge fan of paneer, cottage cheese that is partially dried up and generally cube-shaped. It is, by far, the most commonly used cheese here. Nick’s Neelam Auntie sauteed us up some fresh paneer in ghee (clarified butter–very popular fat used in Indian cooking). The result was essentially fried cheese. What could be better? The soft, salty paneer inside the buttery crispy crust was addictively delicious.

Nick and Neelam Auntie at Bombay Gymkhana

Paneer pan-fried in Ghee